Discussion:
Ibanez V72ECE? Any good?
(too old to reply)
Karen McDonald
2007-04-24 16:59:26 UTC
Permalink
I want to learn to play acoustic guitar and have been advised to the
by the model shown here:

http://www.chamberlainmusic.com/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=V72ECE

It seems like a good buy because I want a guitar with pickups. And
Ibanez seems a reputable make.

But I know nothing about guitars. So I'd be grateful for advice about
this model and/or pointers towards other makes/models that might suit
a beginner with my budget.

Incidentally - 99 UKP equates to around 200 bucks right now.

TIA
Mike Brown
2007-04-25 00:13:59 UTC
Permalink
Post by Karen McDonald
I want to learn to play acoustic guitar and have been advised to the
http://www.chamberlainmusic.com/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=V72ECE
It seems like a good buy because I want a guitar with pickups. And
Ibanez seems a reputable make.
But I know nothing about guitars. So I'd be grateful for advice about
this model and/or pointers towards other makes/models that might suit
a beginner with my budget.
Incidentally - 99 UKP equates to around 200 bucks right now.
TIA
Well, I'd have to play it to give an accurate answer, but it is
certainly many magnitudes better than what I started on.

It has a solid top, which is important, the rest will be laminated, but
that doesn't really matter at your stage.

At $99, I would say that it is a good buy.

MJRB
Cornelius J Rat
2007-04-25 22:53:57 UTC
Permalink
Post by Karen McDonald
I want to learn to play acoustic guitar and have been advised to the
http://www.chamberlainmusic.com/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=V72ECE
It seems like a good buy because I want a guitar with pickups. And
Ibanez seems a reputable make.
But I know nothing about guitars. So I'd be grateful for advice about
this model and/or pointers towards other makes/models that might suit
a beginner with my budget. Incidentally - 99 UKP equates to around 200
bucks right now.
TIA
Well, I'd have to play it to give an accurate answer, but it is certainly
many magnitudes better than what I started on.
It has a solid top, which is important, the rest will be laminated, but
that doesn't really matter at your stage.
At $99, I would say that it is a good buy.
MJRB
Mike, the blurb says the PF60S has a solid top - I would assume the others
such as the V72ECE she mentions are laminated. And it's $200ish (£106
including carriage).

Karen, be sure that you are happy with a Dreadnought size body. I bought a
Tanglewood TW28 dreadnought for my daughter (laminated spruce top, solid was
an extra £50 but I can't find that model now). She gave it back in exchange
for a Yamaha JR-1 3/4 size. I kept the dreadnought.
Mike Brown
2007-04-25 23:51:40 UTC
Permalink
Post by Cornelius J Rat
Post by Karen McDonald
I want to learn to play acoustic guitar and have been advised to the
http://www.chamberlainmusic.com/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=V72ECE
It seems like a good buy because I want a guitar with pickups. And
Ibanez seems a reputable make.
But I know nothing about guitars. So I'd be grateful for advice about
this model and/or pointers towards other makes/models that might suit
a beginner with my budget. Incidentally - 99 UKP equates to around 200
bucks right now.
TIA
Well, I'd have to play it to give an accurate answer, but it is certainly
many magnitudes better than what I started on.
It has a solid top, which is important, the rest will be laminated, but
that doesn't really matter at your stage.
At $99, I would say that it is a good buy.
MJRB
Mike, the blurb says the PF60S has a solid top - I would assume the others
such as the V72ECE she mentions are laminated. And it's $200ish (£106
including carriage).
Karen, be sure that you are happy with a Dreadnought size body. I bought a
Tanglewood TW28 dreadnought for my daughter (laminated spruce top, solid was
an extra £50 but I can't find that model now). She gave it back in exchange
for a Yamaha JR-1 3/4 size. I kept the dreadnought.
The site that was posted shows the V72ECE, states that is has a solid
top, and lists it at $99.

I do agree about the body size though, be sure that a dread suits you
Karen, I'm playing small guitars all the time now.

MJRB
Cornelius J Rat
2007-04-26 09:00:48 UTC
Permalink
The site that was posted shows the V72ECE, states that is has a solid top,
Sorry, Mike - read again carefully.
"Although PF and V series guitars are entry-level instruments, they come
with truly high end features, such as *solid spruce top on PF60S* and active
preamp on both PF and V series guitars."

The PF range have solid spruce tops. About the V72ECE it says only "spruce
top", not "solid spruce top". Tanglewood have played that game as well.

For confirmation, study the catalogue at
http://www.ibanez.co.jp/world/archive/catalog/pdf/2006/2006IBZ_Acoustic_Cat_low.pdf .
If the model has a solid spruce or solid cedar top it says so.
and lists it at $99.
From the description in the link provided by the OP:
"RRP £149.00
Our price £99.00"

The squiggly L symbol that I hope you can see in front of the 149.00 and
the 99.00 is the symbol for pounds sterling, the currency used in the UK.
The tagline is "The UK's first & best online music shop." The OP stated that
the price approximates to 200 dollars. At $99 US with a solid spruce top it
would be a real bargain. At $99 AU even more so.
Mike Brown
2007-04-26 09:58:35 UTC
Permalink
Post by Cornelius J Rat
The site that was posted shows the V72ECE, states that is has a solid top,
Sorry, Mike - read again carefully.
"Although PF and V series guitars are entry-level instruments, they come
with truly high end features, such as *solid spruce top on PF60S* and active
preamp on both PF and V series guitars."
The PF range have solid spruce tops. About the V72ECE it says only "spruce
top", not "solid spruce top". Tanglewood have played that game as well.
For confirmation, study the catalogue at
http://www.ibanez.co.jp/world/archive/catalog/pdf/2006/2006IBZ_Acoustic_Cat_low.pdf .
If the model has a solid spruce or solid cedar top it says so.
and lists it at $99.
"RRP £149.00
Our price £99.00"
The squiggly L symbol that I hope you can see in front of the 149.00 and
the 99.00 is the symbol for pounds sterling, the currency used in the UK.
The tagline is "The UK's first & best online music shop." The OP stated that
the price approximates to 200 dollars. At $99 US with a solid spruce top it
would be a real bargain. At $99 AU even more so.
Sorry, I missed the pounds sign (everything seems to be dollars these days).

I still thought that the site said solid top though, and I read it
several times.

It didn't seem to refer to the other models in the bit that I was reading.

Anyway it won't be the first time I've stuffed up. Shrug.

MJRB
Karen McDonald
2007-04-26 10:39:51 UTC
Permalink
On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 10:00:48 +0100, "Cornelius J Rat"
Post by Cornelius J Rat
The site that was posted shows the V72ECE, states that is has a solid top,
Sorry, Mike - read again carefully.
"Although PF and V series guitars are entry-level instruments, they come
with truly high end features, such as *solid spruce top on PF60S* and active
preamp on both PF and V series guitars."
The PF range have solid spruce tops. About the V72ECE it says only "spruce
top", not "solid spruce top". Tanglewood have played that game as well.
For confirmation, study the catalogue at
http://www.ibanez.co.jp/world/archive/catalog/pdf/2006/2006IBZ_Acoustic_Cat_low.pdf .
If the model has a solid spruce or solid cedar top it says so.
and lists it at $99.
"RRP £149.00
Our price £99.00"
The squiggly L symbol that I hope you can see in front of the 149.00 and
the 99.00 is the symbol for pounds sterling, the currency used in the UK.
The tagline is "The UK's first & best online music shop." The OP stated that
the price approximates to 200 dollars. At $99 US with a solid spruce top it
would be a real bargain. At $99 AU even more so.
Thank you gentlemen for your expert input.

It transpires that the Ibanez V72ECE does not have a 'solid' spruce
top as I originally thought.

So I might go for this LEGACY guitar instead:

http://www.soundcontrol.co.uk/mod_1/pages/mod_1.12/pages/mod_1.12.1/pages/mod_1.12.1.1/pages/index.php?sku=1.1.1.2.1-200-15877

The 'name' is unfamiliar - but the instrument sounds/looks good (to
me) and the price is right. Besides - I've bought loads of music gear
from these guys before and they haven't sold me short yet.

As you can see this guitar also sells for 99 pounds sterling, which at
current exchange rates is around 198 dollars US, 238 dollars AUS or
223 dollars CA. And with a solid spruce top.

Many thanks again for your help.

Karen
Mike Brown
2007-04-26 12:07:12 UTC
Permalink
Post by Karen McDonald
On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 10:00:48 +0100, "Cornelius J Rat"
Post by Cornelius J Rat
The site that was posted shows the V72ECE, states that is has a solid top,
Sorry, Mike - read again carefully.
"Although PF and V series guitars are entry-level instruments, they come
with truly high end features, such as *solid spruce top on PF60S* and active
preamp on both PF and V series guitars."
The PF range have solid spruce tops. About the V72ECE it says only "spruce
top", not "solid spruce top". Tanglewood have played that game as well.
For confirmation, study the catalogue at
http://www.ibanez.co.jp/world/archive/catalog/pdf/2006/2006IBZ_Acoustic_Cat_low.pdf .
If the model has a solid spruce or solid cedar top it says so.
and lists it at $99.
"RRP £149.00
Our price £99.00"
The squiggly L symbol that I hope you can see in front of the 149.00 and
the 99.00 is the symbol for pounds sterling, the currency used in the UK.
The tagline is "The UK's first & best online music shop." The OP stated that
the price approximates to 200 dollars. At $99 US with a solid spruce top it
would be a real bargain. At $99 AU even more so.
Thank you gentlemen for your expert input.
It transpires that the Ibanez V72ECE does not have a 'solid' spruce
top as I originally thought.
http://www.soundcontrol.co.uk/mod_1/pages/mod_1.12/pages/mod_1.12.1/pages/mod_1.12.1.1/pages/index.php?sku=1.1.1.2.1-200-15877
The 'name' is unfamiliar - but the instrument sounds/looks good (to
me) and the price is right. Besides - I've bought loads of music gear
from these guys before and they haven't sold me short yet.
As you can see this guitar also sells for 99 pounds sterling, which at
current exchange rates is around 198 dollars US, 238 dollars AUS or
223 dollars CA. And with a solid spruce top.
Many thanks again for your help.
Karen
Karen

From your post, it sounds as though you've played it, and that is the
main thing, because if you've played it you know how it feels and sounds
and you must like it.

Good luck and happy pickin'.

MJRB
Misifus
2007-04-26 14:08:30 UTC
Permalink
Post by Karen McDonald
On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 10:00:48 +0100, "Cornelius J Rat"
Post by Cornelius J Rat
The site that was posted shows the V72ECE, states that is has a solid top,
Sorry, Mike - read again carefully.
"Although PF and V series guitars are entry-level instruments, they come
with truly high end features, such as *solid spruce top on PF60S* and active
preamp on both PF and V series guitars."
The PF range have solid spruce tops. About the V72ECE it says only "spruce
top", not "solid spruce top". Tanglewood have played that game as well.
For confirmation, study the catalogue at
http://www.ibanez.co.jp/world/archive/catalog/pdf/2006/2006IBZ_Acoustic_Cat_low.pdf .
If the model has a solid spruce or solid cedar top it says so.
and lists it at $99.
"RRP £149.00
Our price £99.00"
The squiggly L symbol that I hope you can see in front of the 149.00 and
the 99.00 is the symbol for pounds sterling, the currency used in the UK.
The tagline is "The UK's first & best online music shop." The OP stated that
the price approximates to 200 dollars. At $99 US with a solid spruce top it
would be a real bargain. At $99 AU even more so.
Thank you gentlemen for your expert input.
It transpires that the Ibanez V72ECE does not have a 'solid' spruce
top as I originally thought.
http://www.soundcontrol.co.uk/mod_1/pages/mod_1.12/pages/mod_1.12.1/pages/mod_1.12.1.1/pages/index.php?sku=1.1.1.2.1-200-15877
The 'name' is unfamiliar - but the instrument sounds/looks good (to
me) and the price is right. Besides - I've bought loads of music gear
from these guys before and they haven't sold me short yet.
As you can see this guitar also sells for 99 pounds sterling, which at
current exchange rates is around 198 dollars US, 238 dollars AUS or
223 dollars CA. And with a solid spruce top.
Many thanks again for your help.
Karen
At your price point, sound and feel are much more important than name.
As Mike said, if you've played it, and it feels and sounds good, that
the most important thing.

Also, buy that one, the same one you played, not one that's the same
model, but brand new and still in the box. There can be a lot of
difference from one guitar to another, even among expensive guitars, so
once you find one you like, that's the one to buy.

-Raf
--
Misifus-
Rafael Seibert
mailto:***@suddenlink.net
blog: http://rafsrincon.blogspot.com/
Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/rafiii
home: http://www.rafandsioux.com
Cornelius J Rat
2007-04-26 14:54:58 UTC
Permalink
Post by Karen McDonald
http://www.soundcontrol.co.uk/mod_1/pages/mod_1.12/pages/mod_1.12.1/pages/mod_1.12.1.1/pages/index.php?sku=1.1.1.2.1-200-15877
The 'name' is unfamiliar - but the instrument sounds/looks good (to
me) and the price is right. > As you can see this guitar also sells for 99
pounds sterling, which at
current exchange rates is around 198 dollars US, 238 dollars AUS or
223 dollars CA. And with a solid spruce top.
I see you have another couple of replies that assume from the above that
you've played the guitar. If you have, I'd say go with their advice; if you
played it and you like it - and you can afford it - buy it. If not, read
on - there's a link that might lead you to a shop where you can.

I think that, like Jim Deacon, Legacy is a UK-only brand (Chinese-made) so
you won't get much hands-on feedback from anywhere outside the UK. I played
a couple of Legacy electrics in a local music shop when they started
stocking them and was impressed by the finish and playability, though at
£299 they were too expensive to be an impulse buy. There is a Legacy
website, too, where you can get a hard case included with your D30CE at £119
if you're going to buy online;
http://www.legacymusicalinstruments.com/productdetails/D30CEpluscase/?show=moreInfo&option=47#contentWide
though I can't see a delivery charge (UPS) without signing in. You can get a
dealer list at the website, so you may be able to try before you buy, or
find a local store to buy from. I'm sorry, I haven't tried their acoustics,
and I think our local (Basingstoke) music shop stopped stocking them when
they became part of the Dawsons chain. As you've picked another dreadnought,
I assume you're happy with that size.

Of course, under the UK's Distance Selling Rules, you have some working days
to check it at home if you buy online, but you would have to return it at
your own cost in original packaging and as new condition.
Post by Karen McDonald
Besides - I've bought loads of music gear
from these guys before and they haven't sold me short yet.
OT: I vaguely remember when Sound Control started up and accidentally (?)
put the decimal in the wrong place on something nice - a good Martin or
Taylor that was listed at, say, £139.40 instead of £1394. They declined my
order very politely and said that if I was really interested they were sure
they could knock a percentage off the real price!
Karen McDonald
2007-04-26 23:25:11 UTC
Permalink
On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 15:54:58 +0100, "Cornelius J Rat"
Post by Cornelius J Rat
Post by Karen McDonald
http://www.soundcontrol.co.uk/mod_1/pages/mod_1.12/pages/mod_1.12.1/pages/mod_1.12.1.1/pages/index.php?sku=1.1.1.2.1-200-15877
The 'name' is unfamiliar - but the instrument sounds/looks good (to
me) and the price is right. > As you can see this guitar also sells for 99
pounds sterling, which at
current exchange rates is around 198 dollars US, 238 dollars AUS or
223 dollars CA. And with a solid spruce top.
I see you have another couple of replies that assume from the above that
you've played the guitar. If you have, I'd say go with their advice; if you
played it and you like it - and you can afford it - buy it. If not, read
on - there's a link that might lead you to a shop where you can.
I think that, like Jim Deacon, Legacy is a UK-only brand (Chinese-made) so
you won't get much hands-on feedback from anywhere outside the UK. I played
a couple of Legacy electrics in a local music shop when they started
stocking them and was impressed by the finish and playability, though at
£299 they were too expensive to be an impulse buy. There is a Legacy
website, too, where you can get a hard case included with your D30CE at £119
if you're going to buy online;
http://www.legacymusicalinstruments.com/productdetails/D30CEpluscase/?show=moreInfo&option=47#contentWide
though I can't see a delivery charge (UPS) without signing in. You can get a
dealer list at the website, so you may be able to try before you buy, or
find a local store to buy from. I'm sorry, I haven't tried their acoustics,
and I think our local (Basingstoke) music shop stopped stocking them when
they became part of the Dawsons chain. As you've picked another dreadnought,
I assume you're happy with that size.
Of course, under the UK's Distance Selling Rules, you have some working days
to check it at home if you buy online, but you would have to return it at
your own cost in original packaging and as new condition.
Post by Karen McDonald
Besides - I've bought loads of music gear
from these guys before and they haven't sold me short yet.
OT: I vaguely remember when Sound Control started up and accidentally (?)
put the decimal in the wrong place on something nice - a good Martin or
Taylor that was listed at, say, £139.40 instead of £1394. They declined my
order very politely and said that if I was really interested they were sure
they could knock a percentage off the real price!
Thank you all for this invaluable info.

Well...

I went into Sound Control today and met a guy roughly my age (he
remembers buying his first Dylan album in 1962) who demonstrated the
Legacy D30CE. Although a beautifully made instrument it sounded rather
'twangy', 'buzzy' and 'thin' to me. So I asked him to play the same
stuff on a high-end wholly solid guitar and he chose a Taylor costing
£1500. Vive la difference - even to my amateur ears. Then I asked him
to go again on a solid top guitar costing 150 pounds (50 more than I
wanted to spend). It was a Yamaha FG-512SJ - and, to be honest, I
couldn't tell the difference between that one and the Taylor. So I
bought the YAM because, <in my opinion>, there was a big difference
between it and the Legacy. The YAM had a much warmer, mellower tone
that I preferred.

Afterwards I went to Borders and got 'The Complete Guitar Player'. Now
I can actually play three chords - A, D & E. But wow! Are my poor
fingers sore? You bet!! But it'll be worth it in the long run I guess.
'No pain: no gain' and all that ;-)

Thanks again for helping get me into guitar playing. I am over your
proverbial moon.

Karen
Chuck
2007-04-26 23:35:24 UTC
Permalink
Post by Karen McDonald
On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 15:54:58 +0100, "Cornelius J Rat"
Post by Cornelius J Rat
Post by Karen McDonald
http://www.soundcontrol.co.uk/mod_1/pages/mod_1.12/pages/mod_1.12.1/pages/mod_1.12.1.1/pages/index.php?sku=1.1.1.2.1-200-15877
The 'name' is unfamiliar - but the instrument sounds/looks good (to
me) and the price is right. > As you can see this guitar also sells for 99
pounds sterling, which at
current exchange rates is around 198 dollars US, 238 dollars AUS or
223 dollars CA. And with a solid spruce top.
I see you have another couple of replies that assume from the above that
you've played the guitar. If you have, I'd say go with their advice; if you
played it and you like it - and you can afford it - buy it. If not, read
on - there's a link that might lead you to a shop where you can.
I think that, like Jim Deacon, Legacy is a UK-only brand (Chinese-made) so
you won't get much hands-on feedback from anywhere outside the UK. I played
a couple of Legacy electrics in a local music shop when they started
stocking them and was impressed by the finish and playability, though at
£299 they were too expensive to be an impulse buy. There is a Legacy
website, too, where you can get a hard case included with your D30CE at £119
if you're going to buy online;
http://www.legacymusicalinstruments.com/productdetails/D30CEpluscase/?show=moreInfo&option=47#contentWide
though I can't see a delivery charge (UPS) without signing in. You can get a
dealer list at the website, so you may be able to try before you buy, or
find a local store to buy from. I'm sorry, I haven't tried their acoustics,
and I think our local (Basingstoke) music shop stopped stocking them when
they became part of the Dawsons chain. As you've picked another dreadnought,
I assume you're happy with that size.
Of course, under the UK's Distance Selling Rules, you have some working days
to check it at home if you buy online, but you would have to return it at
your own cost in original packaging and as new condition.
Post by Karen McDonald
Besides - I've bought loads of music gear
from these guys before and they haven't sold me short yet.
OT: I vaguely remember when Sound Control started up and accidentally (?)
put the decimal in the wrong place on something nice - a good Martin or
Taylor that was listed at, say, £139.40 instead of £1394. They declined my
order very politely and said that if I was really interested they were sure
they could knock a percentage off the real price!
Thank you all for this invaluable info.
Well...
I went into Sound Control today and met a guy roughly my age (he
remembers buying his first Dylan album in 1962) who demonstrated the
Legacy D30CE. Although a beautifully made instrument it sounded rather
'twangy', 'buzzy' and 'thin' to me. So I asked him to play the same
stuff on a high-end wholly solid guitar and he chose a Taylor costing
£1500. Vive la difference - even to my amateur ears. Then I asked him
to go again on a solid top guitar costing 150 pounds (50 more than I
wanted to spend). It was a Yamaha FG-512SJ - and, to be honest, I
couldn't tell the difference between that one and the Taylor. So I
bought the YAM because, <in my opinion>, there was a big difference
between it and the Legacy. The YAM had a much warmer, mellower tone
that I preferred.
Afterwards I went to Borders and got 'The Complete Guitar Player'. Now
I can actually play three chords - A, D & E. But wow! Are my poor
fingers sore? You bet!! But it'll be worth it in the long run I guess.
'No pain: no gain' and all that ;-)
Thanks again for helping get me into guitar playing. I am over your
proverbial moon.
Karen
Congratulations Karen. It's a wonderful journey ahead of you!

Chuck
RichL
2007-04-26 23:44:20 UTC
Permalink
Post by Karen McDonald
I went into Sound Control today and met a guy roughly my age (he
remembers buying his first Dylan album in 1962) who demonstrated the
Legacy D30CE. Although a beautifully made instrument it sounded rather
'twangy', 'buzzy' and 'thin' to me. So I asked him to play the same
stuff on a high-end wholly solid guitar and he chose a Taylor costing
£1500. Vive la difference - even to my amateur ears. Then I asked him
to go again on a solid top guitar costing 150 pounds (50 more than I
wanted to spend). It was a Yamaha FG-512SJ - and, to be honest, I
couldn't tell the difference between that one and the Taylor. So I
bought the YAM because, <in my opinion>, there was a big difference
between it and the Legacy. The YAM had a much warmer, mellower tone
that I preferred.
Afterwards I went to Borders and got 'The Complete Guitar Player'. Now
I can actually play three chords - A, D & E. But wow! Are my poor
fingers sore? You bet!! But it'll be worth it in the long run I guess.
'No pain: no gain' and all that ;-)
Thanks again for helping get me into guitar playing. I am over your
proverbial moon.
Karen
Many Yamahas are very decent guitars. I'm glad you chose a good one --
nothing worse in discouraging beginners than gear that's hard to play.

Good luck to you!
David Kilpatrick
2007-04-26 23:53:42 UTC
Permalink
Karen McDonald wrote:

But wow! Are my poor
Post by Karen McDonald
fingers sore? You bet!! But it'll be worth it in the long run I guess.
'No pain: no gain' and all that ;-)
Thanks again for helping get me into guitar playing. I am over your
proverbial moon.
You just saved £1350 by getting a Yamaha. Now find a good local guitar
setup technician (most teachers know one) or luthier, who can set the
Yamaha up that little bit better - lower action at the nut, especially.
Feel your fingers stop being quite so sore. A good setup can save you a
lot of needless effort and fingertip soreness from the start.

David
Mike Brown
2007-04-27 00:17:45 UTC
Permalink
Post by Karen McDonald
On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 15:54:58 +0100, "Cornelius J Rat"
Post by Cornelius J Rat
Post by Karen McDonald
http://www.soundcontrol.co.uk/mod_1/pages/mod_1.12/pages/mod_1.12.1/pages/mod_1.12.1.1/pages/index.php?sku=1.1.1.2.1-200-15877
The 'name' is unfamiliar - but the instrument sounds/looks good (to
me) and the price is right. > As you can see this guitar also sells for 99
pounds sterling, which at
current exchange rates is around 198 dollars US, 238 dollars AUS or
223 dollars CA. And with a solid spruce top.
I see you have another couple of replies that assume from the above that
you've played the guitar. If you have, I'd say go with their advice; if you
played it and you like it - and you can afford it - buy it. If not, read
on - there's a link that might lead you to a shop where you can.
I think that, like Jim Deacon, Legacy is a UK-only brand (Chinese-made) so
you won't get much hands-on feedback from anywhere outside the UK. I played
a couple of Legacy electrics in a local music shop when they started
stocking them and was impressed by the finish and playability, though at
£299 they were too expensive to be an impulse buy. There is a Legacy
website, too, where you can get a hard case included with your D30CE at £119
if you're going to buy online;
http://www.legacymusicalinstruments.com/productdetails/D30CEpluscase/?show=moreInfo&option=47#contentWide
though I can't see a delivery charge (UPS) without signing in. You can get a
dealer list at the website, so you may be able to try before you buy, or
find a local store to buy from. I'm sorry, I haven't tried their acoustics,
and I think our local (Basingstoke) music shop stopped stocking them when
they became part of the Dawsons chain. As you've picked another dreadnought,
I assume you're happy with that size.
Of course, under the UK's Distance Selling Rules, you have some working days
to check it at home if you buy online, but you would have to return it at
your own cost in original packaging and as new condition.
Post by Karen McDonald
Besides - I've bought loads of music gear
from these guys before and they haven't sold me short yet.
OT: I vaguely remember when Sound Control started up and accidentally (?)
put the decimal in the wrong place on something nice - a good Martin or
Taylor that was listed at, say, £139.40 instead of £1394. They declined my
order very politely and said that if I was really interested they were sure
they could knock a percentage off the real price!
Thank you all for this invaluable info.
Well...
I went into Sound Control today and met a guy roughly my age (he
remembers buying his first Dylan album in 1962) who demonstrated the
Legacy D30CE. Although a beautifully made instrument it sounded rather
'twangy', 'buzzy' and 'thin' to me. So I asked him to play the same
stuff on a high-end wholly solid guitar and he chose a Taylor costing
£1500. Vive la difference - even to my amateur ears. Then I asked him
to go again on a solid top guitar costing 150 pounds (50 more than I
wanted to spend). It was a Yamaha FG-512SJ - and, to be honest, I
couldn't tell the difference between that one and the Taylor. So I
bought the YAM because, <in my opinion>, there was a big difference
between it and the Legacy. The YAM had a much warmer, mellower tone
that I preferred.
Afterwards I went to Borders and got 'The Complete Guitar Player'. Now
I can actually play three chords - A, D & E. But wow! Are my poor
fingers sore? You bet!! But it'll be worth it in the long run I guess.
'No pain: no gain' and all that ;-)
Thanks again for helping get me into guitar playing. I am over your
proverbial moon.
Karen
The Yamahas are hard to beat for the money, it's a good choice IMHO.

Get pickin' and stay around and let us know how you get on.

There will be more things that you want to know, and somebody here will
have the answer.

And we need more distaff players.

MJRB
Jefferson Holston
2007-04-27 05:03:54 UTC
Permalink
Post by Karen McDonald
On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 15:54:58 +0100, "Cornelius J Rat"
Post by Cornelius J Rat
Post by Karen McDonald
http://www.soundcontrol.co.uk/mod_1/pages/mod_1.12/pages/mod_1.12.1/pages/mod_1.12.1.1/pages/index.php?sku=1.1.1.2.1-200-15877
The 'name' is unfamiliar - but the instrument sounds/looks good (to
me) and the price is right. > As you can see this guitar also sells for 99
pounds sterling, which at
current exchange rates is around 198 dollars US, 238 dollars AUS or
223 dollars CA. And with a solid spruce top.
I see you have another couple of replies that assume from the above that
you've played the guitar. If you have, I'd say go with their advice; if you
played it and you like it - and you can afford it - buy it. If not, read
on - there's a link that might lead you to a shop where you can.
I think that, like Jim Deacon, Legacy is a UK-only brand (Chinese-made) so
you won't get much hands-on feedback from anywhere outside the UK. I played
a couple of Legacy electrics in a local music shop when they started
stocking them and was impressed by the finish and playability, though at
£299 they were too expensive to be an impulse buy. There is a Legacy
website, too, where you can get a hard case included with your D30CE at £119
if you're going to buy online;
http://www.legacymusicalinstruments.com/productdetails/D30CEpluscase/?show=moreInfo&option=47#contentWide
though I can't see a delivery charge (UPS) without signing in. You can get a
dealer list at the website, so you may be able to try before you buy, or
find a local store to buy from. I'm sorry, I haven't tried their acoustics,
and I think our local (Basingstoke) music shop stopped stocking them when
they became part of the Dawsons chain. As you've picked another dreadnought,
I assume you're happy with that size.
Of course, under the UK's Distance Selling Rules, you have some working days
to check it at home if you buy online, but you would have to return it at
your own cost in original packaging and as new condition.
Post by Karen McDonald
Besides - I've bought loads of music gear
from these guys before and they haven't sold me short yet.
OT: I vaguely remember when Sound Control started up and accidentally (?)
put the decimal in the wrong place on something nice - a good Martin or
Taylor that was listed at, say, £139.40 instead of £1394. They declined my
order very politely and said that if I was really interested they were sure
they could knock a percentage off the real price!
Thank you all for this invaluable info.
Well...
I went into Sound Control today and met a guy roughly my age (he
remembers buying his first Dylan album in 1962) who demonstrated the
Legacy D30CE. Although a beautifully made instrument it sounded rather
'twangy', 'buzzy' and 'thin' to me. So I asked him to play the same
stuff on a high-end wholly solid guitar and he chose a Taylor costing
£1500. Vive la difference - even to my amateur ears. Then I asked him
to go again on a solid top guitar costing 150 pounds (50 more than I
wanted to spend). It was a Yamaha FG-512SJ - and, to be honest, I
couldn't tell the difference between that one and the Taylor. So I
bought the YAM because, <in my opinion>, there was a big difference
between it and the Legacy. The YAM had a much warmer, mellower tone
that I preferred.
Afterwards I went to Borders and got 'The Complete Guitar Player'. Now
I can actually play three chords - A, D & E. But wow! Are my poor
fingers sore? You bet!! But it'll be worth it in the long run I guess.
'No pain: no gain' and all that ;-)
Thanks again for helping get me into guitar playing. I am over your
proverbial moon.
Karen
Heartiest congratulations, Karen. You made a good decision. Yamaha is not
only a good sound at that price point, they hold up alot better than other
guitars in that range. Now, we'll expect you to keep us up to date on your
progress.

Jeff
Cornelius J Rat
2007-04-27 09:40:14 UTC
Permalink
Post by Karen McDonald
I went into Sound Control today and met a guy roughly my age (he
remembers buying his first Dylan album in 1962) who demonstrated the
Legacy D30CE. Although a beautifully made instrument it sounded rather
'twangy', 'buzzy' and 'thin' to me. So I asked him to play the same
stuff on a high-end wholly solid guitar and he chose a Taylor costing
£1500. Vive la difference - even to my amateur ears. Then I asked him
to go again on a solid top guitar costing 150 pounds (50 more than I
wanted to spend). It was a Yamaha FG-512SJ - and, to be honest, I
couldn't tell the difference between that one and the Taylor. So I
bought the YAM because, <in my opinion>, there was a big difference
between it and the Legacy. The YAM had a much warmer, mellower tone
that I preferred.
Great feedback, Karen. Thanks for sharing your buying experience. Reminds me
of going in to buy a Yamaha cassette deck and coming out with a Nakamichi.
Post by Karen McDonald
Afterwards I went to Borders and got 'The Complete Guitar Player'. Now
I can actually play three chords - A, D & E.
Some people say that's all you need. In my opinion, if you're playing
acoustic guitar you're bound to be playing something miserable at some
point, so you neeed A minor, D minor and E minor too ;-)
Post by Karen McDonald
But wow! Are my poor
fingers sore? You bet!! But it'll be worth it in the long run I guess.
'No pain: no gain' and all that ;-)
As David Kilpatrick says, (if you can afford it) a decent setup would make
it easier on the fingers. From stock, the Tanglewood TW28 definitely would
have been easier playing with something off both bridge and nut, and I'm
sure I'll get around to it one day. For now it's the equivalent of running
in sand, toning me up for playing electrics. (That's my excuse anyway.)
Post by Karen McDonald
Thanks again for helping get me into guitar playing. I am over your
proverbial moon.
Karen
Best wishes for your progress.
Karen McDonald
2007-04-28 11:16:05 UTC
Permalink
On Fri, 27 Apr 2007 10:40:14 +0100, "Cornelius J Rat"
Post by Cornelius J Rat
Post by Karen McDonald
I went into Sound Control today and met a guy roughly my age (he
remembers buying his first Dylan album in 1962) who demonstrated the
Legacy D30CE. Although a beautifully made instrument it sounded rather
'twangy', 'buzzy' and 'thin' to me. So I asked him to play the same
stuff on a high-end wholly solid guitar and he chose a Taylor costing
£1500. Vive la difference - even to my amateur ears. Then I asked him
to go again on a solid top guitar costing 150 pounds (50 more than I
wanted to spend). It was a Yamaha FG-512SJ - and, to be honest, I
couldn't tell the difference between that one and the Taylor. So I
bought the YAM because, <in my opinion>, there was a big difference
between it and the Legacy. The YAM had a much warmer, mellower tone
that I preferred.
Great feedback, Karen. Thanks for sharing your buying experience. Reminds me
of going in to buy a Yamaha cassette deck and coming out with a Nakamichi.
Post by Karen McDonald
Afterwards I went to Borders and got 'The Complete Guitar Player'. Now
I can actually play three chords - A, D & E.
Some people say that's all you need. In my opinion, if you're playing
acoustic guitar you're bound to be playing something miserable at some
point, so you neeed A minor, D minor and E minor too ;-)
Post by Karen McDonald
But wow! Are my poor
fingers sore? You bet!! But it'll be worth it in the long run I guess.
'No pain: no gain' and all that ;-)
As David Kilpatrick says, (if you can afford it) a decent setup would make
it easier on the fingers. From stock, the Tanglewood TW28 definitely would
have been easier playing with something off both bridge and nut, and I'm
sure I'll get around to it one day. For now it's the equivalent of running
in sand, toning me up for playing electrics. (That's my excuse anyway.)
Post by Karen McDonald
Thanks again for helping get me into guitar playing. I am over your
proverbial moon.
Karen
Best wishes for your progress.
Thank you very much for all your most helpful advice and encouraging
words.

I was intrigued to learn that a luthier would be able to make this
Yamaha FG more playable (esp. for a rank beginner like I). Right now
it seems that the strings are a little higher above the fret board
than I would wish, which makes placing the chords much harder and
results in 'buzzing' on certain strings, because I haven't depressed
it/them hard enough or in the best position(s).

Would this be a fair assessment?

Another thing to come out (thought it may have been obvious from the
start) is that now I am much better placed to judge other guitars from
a personal playability angle. After knowing where those three chords
(A,D,E) lie on the fret board I suppose I could go back to the store
and try some other guitars to see if one of those - perhaps the
Tanglewood TW28 - would be more suitable for my particular learning
style. Then, if I found an 'easier-to-play' model, I could practise on
it and return to the Yam when I was more proficient at pressing the
strings.

In this way I don't suppose it would matter too much if the
'easier-to-play' guitar sounded as good as the Yam as long as it was
more conducive to developing my technique, which could hopefully be
transferred with ease to any other guitar.

Does this approach make sense?

In addition, it is now obvious that, unlike pianos, of which I am well
familiar, guitars are far more 'personal' 'individual' instruments -
from a 'playing perspective' at least, in particular when one is
starting out. Also unlike any keyboard instrument I reckon the guitar
is much harder to play because the notes and chords have to
'manufactured' in real time, whereas on a keyboard they are all 'ready
made'.

So, could guitars be like cars, inasmuch as the best ones are often
the hardest to control?

K
RichL
2007-04-28 13:43:58 UTC
Permalink
Post by Karen McDonald
Thank you very much for all your most helpful advice and encouraging
words.
I was intrigued to learn that a luthier would be able to make this
Yamaha FG more playable (esp. for a rank beginner like I). Right now
it seems that the strings are a little higher above the fret board
than I would wish, which makes placing the chords much harder and
results in 'buzzing' on certain strings, because I haven't depressed
it/them hard enough or in the best position(s).
Would this be a fair assessment?
Another thing to come out (thought it may have been obvious from the
start) is that now I am much better placed to judge other guitars from
a personal playability angle. After knowing where those three chords
(A,D,E) lie on the fret board I suppose I could go back to the store
and try some other guitars to see if one of those - perhaps the
Tanglewood TW28 - would be more suitable for my particular learning
style. Then, if I found an 'easier-to-play' model, I could practise on
it and return to the Yam when I was more proficient at pressing the
strings.
In this way I don't suppose it would matter too much if the
'easier-to-play' guitar sounded as good as the Yam as long as it was
more conducive to developing my technique, which could hopefully be
transferred with ease to any other guitar.
Does this approach make sense?
In addition, it is now obvious that, unlike pianos, of which I am well
familiar, guitars are far more 'personal' 'individual' instruments -
from a 'playing perspective' at least, in particular when one is
starting out. Also unlike any keyboard instrument I reckon the guitar
is much harder to play because the notes and chords have to
'manufactured' in real time, whereas on a keyboard they are all 'ready
made'.
So, could guitars be like cars, inasmuch as the best ones are often
the hardest to control?
K
At the very least, get a good luthier to examine the guitar first before
deciding whether or not you want to return it. He should be able to tell
whether or not he can get it into a condition where the issues you raise can
be alleviated. A Yamaha these days is generally a good instrument and
should be able to be put into good playing condition.

The buzzing you speak of is common for beginners, whether the guitar is set
up properly or not. It's a matter of pressing at the right point behind the
fret and/or with sufficient pressure. But a good setup will help. Once you
have a few months of practice under your belt, you'll wonder why it was ever
an issue in the first place.

As to the piano analogy, I play both, and maybe you can think of it in terms
of beginners on pianos accidentally striking two adjacent keys when they
intend to strike only one. In other words, once you get it set up right,
the only issue is developing the proper technique, and beginner mistakes
like this disappear. You'll be able to "manufacture" any note you want.
The guitar is a little harder at the beginning, because the technique is
more important, but in time these differences vanish. You'll be able to do
things on the guitar that you can't do on the piano, such as "bend" notes
(continuously vary the pitch by moving your finger perpendicular to the axis
of the neck). That's not "built in" to the piano.

Hope this helps -- Rich
Mike Brown
2007-04-28 23:35:12 UTC
Permalink
Post by Karen McDonald
On Fri, 27 Apr 2007 10:40:14 +0100, "Cornelius J Rat"
Post by Cornelius J Rat
Post by Karen McDonald
I went into Sound Control today and met a guy roughly my age (he
remembers buying his first Dylan album in 1962) who demonstrated the
Legacy D30CE. Although a beautifully made instrument it sounded rather
'twangy', 'buzzy' and 'thin' to me. So I asked him to play the same
stuff on a high-end wholly solid guitar and he chose a Taylor costing
£1500. Vive la difference - even to my amateur ears. Then I asked him
to go again on a solid top guitar costing 150 pounds (50 more than I
wanted to spend). It was a Yamaha FG-512SJ - and, to be honest, I
couldn't tell the difference between that one and the Taylor. So I
bought the YAM because, <in my opinion>, there was a big difference
between it and the Legacy. The YAM had a much warmer, mellower tone
that I preferred.
Great feedback, Karen. Thanks for sharing your buying experience. Reminds me
of going in to buy a Yamaha cassette deck and coming out with a Nakamichi.
Post by Karen McDonald
Afterwards I went to Borders and got 'The Complete Guitar Player'. Now
I can actually play three chords - A, D & E.
Some people say that's all you need. In my opinion, if you're playing
acoustic guitar you're bound to be playing something miserable at some
point, so you neeed A minor, D minor and E minor too ;-)
Post by Karen McDonald
But wow! Are my poor
fingers sore? You bet!! But it'll be worth it in the long run I guess.
'No pain: no gain' and all that ;-)
As David Kilpatrick says, (if you can afford it) a decent setup would make
it easier on the fingers. From stock, the Tanglewood TW28 definitely would
have been easier playing with something off both bridge and nut, and I'm
sure I'll get around to it one day. For now it's the equivalent of running
in sand, toning me up for playing electrics. (That's my excuse anyway.)
Post by Karen McDonald
Thanks again for helping get me into guitar playing. I am over your
proverbial moon.
Karen
Best wishes for your progress.
Thank you very much for all your most helpful advice and encouraging
words.
I was intrigued to learn that a luthier would be able to make this
Yamaha FG more playable (esp. for a rank beginner like I). Right now
it seems that the strings are a little higher above the fret board
than I would wish, which makes placing the chords much harder and
results in 'buzzing' on certain strings, because I haven't depressed
it/them hard enough or in the best position(s).
Would this be a fair assessment?
Another thing to come out (thought it may have been obvious from the
start) is that now I am much better placed to judge other guitars from
a personal playability angle. After knowing where those three chords
(A,D,E) lie on the fret board I suppose I could go back to the store
and try some other guitars to see if one of those - perhaps the
Tanglewood TW28 - would be more suitable for my particular learning
style. Then, if I found an 'easier-to-play' model, I could practise on
it and return to the Yam when I was more proficient at pressing the
strings.
In this way I don't suppose it would matter too much if the
'easier-to-play' guitar sounded as good as the Yam as long as it was
more conducive to developing my technique, which could hopefully be
transferred with ease to any other guitar.
Does this approach make sense?
In addition, it is now obvious that, unlike pianos, of which I am well
familiar, guitars are far more 'personal' 'individual' instruments -
from a 'playing perspective' at least, in particular when one is
starting out. Also unlike any keyboard instrument I reckon the guitar
is much harder to play because the notes and chords have to
'manufactured' in real time, whereas on a keyboard they are all 'ready
made'.
So, could guitars be like cars, inasmuch as the best ones are often
the hardest to control?
K
You did the right thing Karen, pick the one that sounds best to you, the
"action" (playing quality) can be adjusted to your needs and taste by a
luthier or a competant technician, and by changing the strings.

I don't think that a good guitar is harder to control, it should produce
a better sound more easily, and may be louder, but that makes the
process easier IMHO.

The other thing that does complicate learning a guitar is that a written
note can be played at several positions on the fingerboard, so there is
often a choice of where and how a piece is played.

MJRB
Cornelius J Rat
2007-04-30 14:27:45 UTC
Permalink
Post by Karen McDonald
Thank you very much for all your most helpful advice and encouraging
words.
I was intrigued to learn that a luthier would be able to make this
Yamaha FG more playable (esp. for a rank beginner like I). Right now
it seems that the strings are a little higher above the fret board
than I would wish, which makes placing the chords much harder and
results in 'buzzing' on certain strings, because I haven't depressed
it/them hard enough or in the best position(s).
Would this be a fair assessment?
Yes; although, with experience, you'll learn the right pressure/position(s)
to stop buzzing; getting the guitar adjusted would reduce the pressure (but,
of course, would cost).
Post by Karen McDonald
Another thing to come out (thought it may have been obvious from the
start) is that now I am much better placed to judge other guitars from
a personal playability angle. After knowing where those three chords
(A,D,E) lie on the fret board I suppose I could go back to the store
and try some other guitars to see if one of those - perhaps the
Tanglewood TW28 - would be more suitable for my particular learning
style. Then, if I found an 'easier-to-play' model, I could practise on
it and return to the Yam when I was more proficient at pressing the
strings.
You could do, but I think "easier-to-play" would probably mean more
expensive anyway. I would think your Yamaha is easier to play than my
£75-in-the-sale laminated-top Tanglewood. Cheaper guitars tend to be built
with a higher "action" (string height above frets), presumably so that the
makers don't have to spend time on adjusting them to get the fret height and
neck tension "just right". This makes them harder to play. I can live with
it, it's not my primary guitar.
Post by Karen McDonald
In this way I don't suppose it would matter too much if the
'easier-to-play' guitar sounded as good as the Yam as long as it was
more conducive to developing my technique, which could hopefully be
transferred with ease to any other guitar.
Does this approach make sense?
Strings do feel hard when you're not used to them, especially steel, but you
will develop hard skin on your finger tips. The bleeding does stop ;-) With
experience (and calluses) will come the ability to play almost any other
guitar (and then comment on how nice or horrible it is to play. It is
amazing how bad are some guitars out there). You liked the tone of the
Yamaha, it's playable and maybe could be improved further when you have
played enough to need the difference.
Post by Karen McDonald
So, could guitars be like cars, inasmuch as the best ones are often
the hardest to control?
No. A well-made and set-up guitar should be relatively easy to play, though
it could be that by some fluke of woods and assembly a guitar that's hard to
play could have a lovely tone. You do have to press hard enough, in the
right place, whatever the guitar is. You could consider cutting the
fingernails on your left hand if they're long; that may help.

Just a thought: the age of the strings will also affect tone. Some people
like the bright sound of new strings and change them frequently. Others
prefer the softer sound of "played in" strings.
Cornelius J Rat
2007-04-30 15:20:48 UTC
Permalink
You could consider cutting the fingernails on your left hand if they're
long; that may help.
..err, I'm assuming that's your fretting hand because the FG-512SJ is a
right-handed guitar...
Karen McDonald
2007-05-06 19:25:02 UTC
Permalink
On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 16:20:48 +0100, "Cornelius J Rat"
Post by Cornelius J Rat
You could consider cutting the fingernails on your left hand if they're
long; that may help.
..err, I'm assuming that's your fretting hand because the FG-512SJ is a
right-handed guitar...
Yes indeed. I am right-handed and use my left hand for the frets. I
also cut my long nails a good few years ago. But I appreciate your
comment because when teaching piano I always had trouble getting my
female students to cut theirs.

Now without seeking to extend this thread excessively (and selfishly)
off-topic...a little BTW...

I have since gotten another guitar which is easier to play. It's a
Yamaha C40 classical with a very nice sound indeed. I have kept the
FG-512SJ however and hope to return to it when I can do what I set out
to do. Learn the primary chords in A major. At my age I guess you have
to trim your expectations ;-)

So far I have learned three chords: A, D & E. Now I need F sharp minor
and B minor. But there appear to be several different ways of playing
these chords. So I would welcome advice on getting easy-to-play
versions using the minimum number of strings. I ask this because the
fingers are beginning to seize a bit now due to that old pest Arthur
Itis.

Many thanks again to everyone for their invaluable help.

Karen
Mike Brown
2007-05-07 00:18:59 UTC
Permalink
Post by Karen McDonald
On Mon, 30 Apr 2007 16:20:48 +0100, "Cornelius J Rat"
Post by Cornelius J Rat
You could consider cutting the fingernails on your left hand if they're
long; that may help.
..err, I'm assuming that's your fretting hand because the FG-512SJ is a
right-handed guitar...
Yes indeed. I am right-handed and use my left hand for the frets. I
also cut my long nails a good few years ago. But I appreciate your
comment because when teaching piano I always had trouble getting my
female students to cut theirs.
Now without seeking to extend this thread excessively (and selfishly)
off-topic...a little BTW...
I have since gotten another guitar which is easier to play. It's a
Yamaha C40 classical with a very nice sound indeed. I have kept the
FG-512SJ however and hope to return to it when I can do what I set out
to do. Learn the primary chords in A major. At my age
I'm 73 and still learning.
Post by Karen McDonald
I guess you have to trim your expectations ;-)
Not really, just take it steadily and find ways round what you can't
manage. Partial chords, use of open strings between chords, all sorts of
little "tricks".
Post by Karen McDonald
So far I have learned three chords: A, D & E. Now I need F sharp minor
The versions that I use is x44222 or xx4222
Post by Karen McDonald
and B minor.
and xx4432

Both of these "partial chords" cna be moved up the fingerboard fret at a
time to any position, work out what you are playing as you go - F#m to
Gm to G#m etc.

But there appear to be several different ways of playing
Post by Karen McDonald
these chords. So I would welcome advice on getting easy-to-play
versions using the minimum number of strings. I ask this because the
fingers are beginning to seize a bit now due to that old pest Arthur
Itis.
Many thanks again to everyone for their invaluable help.
Karen
Arthur is a friend (?) of mine too.

Good luck Karen, have fun.

MJRB
Cornelius J Rat
2007-05-18 07:52:51 UTC
Permalink
Post by Cornelius J Rat
As David Kilpatrick says, (if you can afford it) a decent setup would make
it easier on the fingers. From stock, the Tanglewood TW28 definitely would
have been easier playing with something off both bridge and nut, and I'm
sure I'll get around to it one day. For now it's the equivalent of running
in sand, toning me up for playing electrics. (That's my excuse anyway.)
"One day" came yesterday - I took about 1/8th in. (!) off the bottom of the
bridge saddle of the Tanglewood TW28SN-Y last night. That's improved it
greatly.

The nut's not quite so easy to address, as it's glued and the bridge saddle
wasn't.
Dorgan
2007-05-18 20:44:41 UTC
Permalink
Post by Cornelius J Rat
The nut's not quite so easy to address, as it's glued and the bridge
saddle wasn't.
It probably has just a dab of glue holding it.
I can usually remove nuts that are glued by holding a short piece of wood
dowel up against the end of them and giving the opposite end of the dowel a
gentle rap with a hammer.
Dorgan
Chuck
2007-05-18 20:48:07 UTC
Permalink
Post by Dorgan
Post by Cornelius J Rat
The nut's not quite so easy to address, as it's glued and the bridge
saddle wasn't.
It probably has just a dab of glue holding it.
I can usually remove nuts that are glued by holding a short piece of wood
dowel up against the end of them and giving the opposite end of the dowel a
gentle rap with a hammer.
Dorgan
I can think of a few nuts around here that need to be loosened in such a
manner!

ChuckS
Cornelius J Rat
2007-05-18 21:32:08 UTC
Permalink
Post by Dorgan
Post by Cornelius J Rat
The nut's not quite so easy to address, as it's glued and the bridge
saddle wasn't.
It probably has just a dab of glue holding it.
I can usually remove nuts that are glued by holding a short piece of wood
dowel up against the end of them and giving the opposite end of the dowel
a gentle rap with a hammer.
Dorgan
Thanks for the suggestion, Bob. Not sure when I'll get around to it, the
bridge improvement's going to keep me happy for a while and I have a clutch
to change....
o<8O~
aka Nick
Ed Edelenbos
2007-05-18 21:56:13 UTC
Permalink
Post by Dorgan
Post by Cornelius J Rat
The nut's not quite so easy to address, as it's glued and the bridge
saddle wasn't.
It probably has just a dab of glue holding it.
I can usually remove nuts that are glued by holding a short piece of wood
dowel up against the end of them and giving the opposite end of the dowel
a gentle rap with a hammer.
Dorgan
What, the Draper "ceiling fan nut removal" method is out of fashion?

Besides, isn't it easier to deepen the slots on a nut than to remove it and
sand the bottom?

Ed


PS: Bob, if you read this here, I accidentally hit the reply to sender
button which put the same in your mailbox. Sorry 'bout that.

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